John & Skye: Kendal to Cape Wrath

Equipment - 2008 Continuous Munro Walk

2010-02-14T06:05:00.000-08:00

What equipment did you take...?

Since I returned from my five month long walk, it has always been one of the first questions people make ‘how big and heavy was you rucksack, and what equipment did you take?' I have therefore revisited my notes and listed all the kit I used with the aim to share my experience and views and also hope that this may be of help for others in deciding what to take (or not), and deciding on their own personal kit list, for a weekend or a multi-week adventure. In the next few weeks I hope also to follow this up with how I decided what food to take.

Of course what items we all take (or don’t take) on our trips varies enormously depending on the nature of the trip (location, season, length, environment, facilities) and our individual aspirations, requirements and disposition. It wasn’t easy deciding what to take as I was trying to include equipment which would be suitable for a wide range of situations. An extended solo Scottish summer backpacking trip, with all the vagaries of Scottish highland weather (very hot and very cold), walking in low lying glens but spending a lot of time on Munro tops, crossing rough ground and walking off-track in remote county with some road walking, mostly wild-camping but also using camp sites, often with few facilities, limited backup and several days until possibilities of resupply. A challenge.

There were many factors that eventually shaped the list. One primary factor was pack weight. I wanted as light a pack as possible which meant essential items only. I had to carry this thing over many miles and up 284 hills! If an item wasn’t used, it went home. Saying that, it was supposed to be a holiday and enjoyable and I did make allowances for an acceptable level of comfort.

Walking and camping day after day can take its toll on equipment. I simply couldn’t afford to be constantly buying or replacing gear as needed. I wasn't sponsored by any manufacture however Heather and Alan at Pacerpoles kindly provided my Pacerpoles and Lorraine Macall helped in the supply of my Raichle boots. I also did not have the luxury of immediate backup. If something failed, at best it may have taken days to get a replacement, and at worst, my safety may have been threatened. Any equipment would have to have a certain level of durability built into it.

So with this in mind, I tried to strike a balance between functionality, weight, comfort and durability. The list below shows what I equipment I finally chose to take and carry with me.

The equipment worked very well, and if I repeated the trip, I would struggle to decide what I would now leave out and what would need adding. I could maybe change some items to get the weight down (eg. I now use a Thermarest Neoair @ 270g) as new lighter products have come onto the market. There are a number of items however that were invaluable and deserve a brief mention.

Hilleberg Akto Tent

The Akto is so quick and easy to erect I could now put it up blindfold! This was priceless, especially when setting up camp at the end of a very long, tiring day in bad weather or surrounded by swarms of midges. It provided ample space (comfort) for my German Shepherd Dog and me and never showed any signs of weakness in bad weather. Hilleberg are expensive, but after five months of constant use, the tent showed little sign of wear at all.

Golite Pinnacle Rucksack

A simple designed sack and relatively lightweight. I used an Exped waterproof liner within the sack throughout the trip and this never failed to keep everything dry. I found the sack large enough to carry up to six days food (with dog food) although it was at it limits at that. I never considered comfort a problem even though it has no rigid back, padding or mesh. Many of the hills I climbed lightweight by stashing my pack at the bottom of hills between rocks and walking up with just a bumbag filled with safety gear, food and water. I bought the Pinnacle in grey as it camouflaged well into rocks, reducing the risk of it being found while I was away from it. The dog was pretty good at relocating the pack on descent, as it had all her food in! A valuable feature of the Pinnacle are the large mesh side-pockets which are great for allowing ease of access to water bottles, hats, gloves and food bars whilst walking. Again after five months very little sign of significant wear.

Lifeventure Bumbag

I used the bumbag to carry food, water and emergency equipment with me when on forays away from the tent or when I stashed the rucksack.

Rab 400 Quantum Endurance

A superb dependable bag that kept me warm when I needed it. It was unzipped during hot nights and used like a duvet. The outer Endurance fabric was worth its weight in gold as its water repellency helped stop my tent companion (a constantly wet dog) soaking the down! The bag was professionally cleared on my return and the Endurance is as good as it ever was. To prevent the bag getting wet in the pack, it was stuffed into an Exped dry bag and this was placed into the Exped rucksack liner.

Thermarest Prolite 3 (Short)

After a day out on the hills, I never had any problem with sleep, even when it was blowing a hoolie! The Thermarest was very comfortable throughout the trip.

Pacerpoles

Walking poles with ergonomically shaped handles. They eventually became an extension of my limbs and greatly reduced the day to day effort of ascending and descending many hills. These poles played a major role in making the sheer strenuous effort achievable. I would not go out into the hills without them now. Wonderful pieces of equipment!!

Paramo Velez Smock and Cascada Trousers

With the idea of trying to achieve a lightweight flexible clothing system suited to wet, cold and hot weather, I initially packed lightweight Goretex (Berghaus Paclite) clothing and adopted a layering system. When the rain and wind set in during mid-June for six whole weeks, I rapidly sent this clothing home and had my Paramo smock and trousers sent up. The Goretex never lived up to its claims, the jacket and trousers were very delicate (zips, drawcords etc), and a continual on/off with layers eventually became tiring. The Paramo smock and a thin wool top provided a very flexible approach on all but very hot days, where I carried the jacket and swapped the Cascada trousers for thin wind-proofs. They were completely dependable in some very prolonged spells of unpleasant weather and were extremely durable. The Cascada trousers became a bit raggedy on the leg bottoms and inside leg seams, but the smock is in still in excellent condition.

Footwear

I went through five sets of footwear and used Superfeet footbeds.

I initially set off wearing lightweight fabric and Goretex boots (Aku Slope). Although they’re lightweight (which is why I initially bought them), the sole wore out so quickly I was amazed. The second pair were Aku Zeniths, constructed from leather and Goretex. Although they were very, very comfortable, the rubber sole again wore out incredibly quickly indeed. I also used Asolo approach shoes which worked very well. The most miles were walked in a pair of Raichle Mountain Trail boots. They were wonderfully comfortable and waterproof until the sole eventually disintegrated. The final pair were Keen Targhee and immediately felt uber-light compared to the Raichle boots. The Event lining leaked almost as soon as I got them out of the shop and the soles were treacherous on wet grassy slopes!

I like to use Inov8s running shoes when on backpacking trips, but find they can wear out quickly on rough rocky ground. The amount of pairs I would have needed over five months I considered then to be outwith my budget.

MSR Pocket Rocket

This stove is very small, light and simple to use. Disastrously, two months into the trip I found that I could not screw on any gas canisters! I replaced it and the same thing happened towards the end of the trip. I am always careful not to cross thread or over tighten canisters .Maybe these stoves have a working lifespan and I exceeded it?

Terra Nova 2 person Bothy Shelter

I carried this for safety reasons. If required, when away from my rucksack or tent, ‘the dog’ and I could use the shelter to get out of the elements. Taking only a bivvi for emergencies would have excluded shelter to beloved canine companions! It however proved to be very useful for lunch stops in bad weather, sitting on, as a groundsheet and a whole variety of other uses. A very useful bit of gear.

Utility kit

Very small pen knife, pegs, whistle and spare batteries.

First Aid Kit

Compeeds, zinc tape, plaster strips , antiseptic cream, lip salve and paracetamol/ibuprofen.

Hygiene

Wash suds, lightweight towel, toothbrush, toothpaste, loo roll, lighter and hand sanitiser.

A bivvy night on Raasay

2010-02-09T12:56:00.000-08:00

I have just finished reading ‘Clear Waters Rising’ by Nicholas Crane and this reminded me of a night I spent last year on Raasay. The book is a wonderful account of Nick’s walk through the mountain ranges of Europe from Spain to Istanbul. He did it spending many of the nights in just his bivvy bag.

For several years I have annually spent a week holidaying on Raasay, a relatively small island to the east of Skye on the western coast of Scotland. Raasay can be accessed easily from Skye by the small CalMac car ferry from Sconser.

Friends and I rent a large house located on the sea shore overlooking Holoman Island and the Sound of Skye. We go there because it is quiet and relaxation is not difficult. Raasay also has some amazing chances to view wildlife. Each year we see otters within a stone throw of the house. The bird life is stunning with golden eagle, sea eagle and flocks of diving gannet. Some of the more recent highlights have been watching basking shark, porpoise and dolphin from the shore and sometimes even from the conservatory window! The scenery of course is stunning, as you would expect from a Scottish island.

The house overlooks Ben Tianavaig and the Trotternish Peninsular of Skye to the west, the Applecross Peninsula to the east, Glamaig, Scalpy and the Red Cuillin dominate the southern views and Rhona to the north. The views are all best seen from Dun Caan, the highest point on the island at 443m, and shaped like a volcano with its top sliced off.

We were all last there in October 2009, and one the highlights for me was sleeping out on the top of Dun Caan. Setting off in the dark around 9pm, after a big meal, I made out with my headtorch for the summit following the well worn path. The weather was clear, warmish with a light wind blowing; an ideal night for spending under the stars. After an hour, I arrived at the trig point and found a soft, sheltered location with an almost 360 degree vista, spread out my bivvy and slipped into my sleeping bag. The night sky was amazing, as to be expected, but what struck me the most was the shear number of flashing lights and navigation beacons scattered all around the coastlines and marking boats. The night opened up a whole new world to me and I spent many hours soaking it all up until I drifted off and awoke to the view of a golden eagle directly above me soaring towards Rhona. Magical.

Sunrise on Dun Caan looking towards Skye Cuillin

"The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men" and Sprinkling Tarn

2010-01-31T11:07:00.000-08:00

"The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men" (Poem, 1785, Robert Burns) or crudely translated "it doesn't matter how much planning you may put in, it ain't going to work out as you wished. The quotation just about sums up my recent adventures to walk 200 miles through the Scotish highlands, from Fort William to Cape Wrath, in mid-winter. The Swine Flu got me right at the very start in Fort William on 16th December. I had no option but to make a very hasty retreat to Kendal feeling very poorly indeed. The trip has now been delicately placed on the front shelf and I am 'planning' (should I really use this word again?) to have a go at it again next winter.

When I did eventually get back onto my feet again in the New Year, the winter snows in Cumbria had been amazing, and some great walking and backpacking was to be had while it lasted! A memorable night being a high level camp at 600m next to a very frozen Sprinkling Tarn. The image below was taken just heading from Seathwaite Farm into a white-out.

Sprinkling tarn was completely frozen over and the hill in full snow cover. I stopped trying to dig through the tarn for water after 8" of digging. Very frozen! The ground made it difficult to secure my Hilleberg Akto tent but with the help of walking poles and an ice axe, I seomhow managed to secure it. I have an almost obsessive fear about not securing guy points and always do the best job I can. How lucky I have this obsession, as I had no idea at the time just what I was in for.

After arriving at the Tarn, levelling an icy platform, getting the tent up and fixing a delicious home de-hydrated veggie curry, I settled down with a brew in the wierd, quiet, milky solitude that only a snowy winter camp can produce. Looking from the tent door, all was misty and still; flurries of snow falling and brushing down the sides of the tent. My Silva temp gauge told me it was minus 6C outside. No real night for wandering around! Around 9ish and, much to my surprise, all this changed, the mist lifted and a brilliant clear moonlit night emerged! I was treated to an 'almost' full moon natural display of wonder. I spent the next hour or so wandering around Seathwaite Fell. No head torch needed!

Eventually I made it back to my cosy down sleeping bag for a quiet night. This brings me back to, "The best laid plans...". During all my snoozing, the wind got up and a pretty nasty storm woke me up with the fly-sheet flapping violently around my head. Spindrift was everywhere, including under the fly and the wind was really battering in in violent gusts! Chaos seemed to have erupted while I was asleep. Six inches of snow was deposited overnight and after I managed to battern down the hatches, we survived the enslaught. There were casualties though. The Akto is now due a repair job to the central stitching which houses the pole. Even Aktos can meet their limits in winter!

So a new recruit for my winter trips has arrived while the Akto recovers. Having recently spent a weekend in the Hilleberg Soulo camping high in the snowy hills around Coniston, I am very very impressed with its great design, comfort and quality.

Heading up north tomorrow...

2009-12-14T11:35:00.000-08:00

Finished work, all packed and final assessment of weather. Tomorrow I'll be catching the train to Fort William and heading up north.

The forecast says the first day of walking is not too bad and looking forward to it...bright intervals and scattered showers on Wednesday these merging into a more prolonged spell of sleet or snow on Thursday. Scattered wintry showers on Friday.
The outlook following this is cloudy with rain, sleet or snow with some significant snowfall possible over high ground and hills in Scotland.Temperatures are likely to be rather cold or cold throughout, especially overnight, with frosts and icy conditions in many parts.
Must put another pair of wooly socks in my rucksack!
So long and I'll be back with lots of photos and probably stories of the frozen north.

Getting near and getting cold

2009-12-10T09:36:00.000-08:00

Only four days to go now before I start walking almost 250 miles from Fort William to Cape Wrath. The rain has stopped and the sun even came out today in Cumbria. The temperature has plumetted though with a current temp of 4C and it must freeze tonight! I am hoping for many days of calm, clear and cold weather at least for a few days along the way.

Three boxes packed full of food have been sent up to three locations on the way and should be waiting for me as I wind my way north to the Cape. Final decsions of which warm wooly jumper to take and whether I should take my Christmas stocking with me? Does anyone know if Father Christmas stops off at bothies on his travels?

You may be interested in watching Iain Harper's progress on his winter walk north to the Cape at Iain Harper North to the Cape

Kit List II

2009-12-08T14:45:00.000-08:00

It has been hard deciding what equipment to take. It all really depends on the weather I will encounter walking in Scotland for 3 weeks. Being prepared for the worst but hoping for the best. It could be very wet and warm, although I am preparing for the very cold, with blizzards, ice and snow on the passes! The list below is really the gear I used during my walk around the Munros with a few items upgraded for more demanding weather.

The heavy duty sleeping bag... I do sleep cold and a Rab Ladakh 800 bag sounds exccessive...and maybe it will be, but it is the warmest one I own. I know from experience my Rab Quantum 400 is not warm enough during cold spells. A cooker with remote tank for colder weather, down jacket, warmer gloves and a few more layers have also been added. I will be trying the Kahtoola alluminium crampons for the first time and using my old Scarpa SL leather boots. My feet get very cold in my Inov8s in the snow and cramp sets in. The Scarpas are the most warm and comfortable boots I have ever owned for winter walking...but heavy.

Golight Pinnacle Rucksack
Exped Rucksack Liner
Neoair Thermarest
Hillerberg Akto Tent
Rab Ladakh 800 Sleeping Bag
Rab Bivi Bag

Cook pot (MSR titanium)
Platypus 2 Litre water bottle
Water filter bottle
Plastic cup
Burner
Folding Spork

Toothbrush and paste
Towel
Loo-role
Antisepic gel
Wash Suds
Toilet Bag
Toilet trowel
First Aid Kit

Tikka Plus Torch
Mobile phone
Camera
GPS
Book
MP3 Player
Silva ADC Wind Weather Station

Montane down jacket
OR Overmitts
Spare woollen socks
Bed socks (wool)
Spare underpants
Wool bed top

Pen knife
Ear plugs
Whistle
2 Pegs
Thermarest repair kit
Can opener
Mobile battery
Camera battery
Lighter

Ibubrofen tablets
Plaster strip
Compeeds
Lip salve
Antiseptic cream
Zinc tape

Maps
Compass
Suunto altimax watch
Pacerpoles
Trakmates amphibian Goretex socks
Boots - Scarpa SLs
Gaiters
Wool hat
Paramo Aspira Jacket
Paramo Trousers
Merino wool base layer
Rab Generator Jacket
Fleece Buff
Gloves 2 thin pairs

Bothy knife-saw
Snow goggles
Grivel Munro Ice Axe
Kahtoola Aluminium Crampons

From my calculations, I will be carrying a base weight of 8.9kg, and with five days food, this will be around 14.5kg. No dog food this time thankfully!!

Ben Alder - February 2008

Kit List

2009-12-04T15:31:00.000-08:00

It has been difficult to decide what equipment to take with me. The decision for some of the kit was easy...Paramo waterproofs, Hilleberg Akto tent, Pacerpoles...all good sound dependable kit. Wouldn't leave them behind.

The rest to follow...

Short Days....

2009-12-04T14:58:00.000-08:00

It is real easy to forget that days are short in Scotland at this time of the year. After considering this, I decided to shorten my daily distance. It will be nice to take the walk at a more leisurely pace and I will be taking a few good books to pass the time with during those long nights.

The final route is shown below. I plan to walk a shortish day on average at 13 miles (22km) with 600m of ascent. It all starts with a train up to Fort William on the 15th December and start walking on the 16th to hopefully finish in Durness on 3rd January in Durness.

Skye has insisted that this time I walk alone and that she hopes to spend the time laying in front of the woodburning stove dreaming of hills. It will be all on for me looking after myself if the weather turns for the worst. Skye therefore stays at home for this trip...she insists!!!

TRAVEL TO FORT WILLIAM
Fort Willaim - Glen Dubhe Lighe Bothy
Gleann Dubh Lighe Bothy - Kinbreack Bothy
Kinbreack Bothy - Glen Kingie
Glen Kingie - Cluannie Inn - Camban Bothy
Camban Bothy - Maol Bhuidhe Bothy
Maol Bhuidhe Bothy - Bearnais Bothy
Bearnais Bothy - Coire Fionaraich Bothy
Coire Fionaraich Bothy - Kinlochewe Hotel
Kinlochewe Hotel - Shenavall Bothy
REST DAY CHRISTMAS DAY
Shenavall Bothy - Glen Douchary
Glen Douchary - Duag Bridge Bothy
Duag Bridge Bothy - Loch Ailsh
Loch Ailsh - Glencoul Bothy
Glencoul Bothy - Kylesku Hotel - Kylesku
Kylesku Hotel - An Dubh Loch
An Dubh Loch - Strathan Bothy
Strathan Bothy - Kervaig Bothy
Kervaig Bothy - Durness

Camban Bothy - 2008 Continuous Munro Walk

From Daft Idea...

2009-11-07T03:42:00.000-08:00

I find planning a walking trip such as this, a big part of the fun. Starting with a daft idea, I then surround myself with maps and decide on places I would like to visit or re-visit (mountains, bothies, villages, glens, great camp spots) and then on Tracklogs mapping software, I put together a series of day routes. From the mapping sofware I can then get an idea of distance and ascent and know if the days route is feasible.

I have tried to finish at a bothy just to account for bad weather and shelter but I am hoping to wildcamp really. There are two luxury nights in Kinlochewe and Kylesku and these are locations I will be picking up re-supply packages.

For a winter route such as this, I have kept the days much shorter than I would for the summer. I am expecting to cover no more than 15 miles a day. The route is along glens and over passes so not much ascent either. The weather I encounter may well decide the length of my days and just to account for this, I do have a plan B, C and D.

Day 1 TRAVEL TO FORT WILLIAM 15-Dec-09

Day 2 Fort Willaim - Glen Dubhe Lighe Bothy 21km 13miles 351m

Day 3 Gleann Dubh Lighe Bothy - A' Chuil Bothy 16km 9.5 miles 562m

Day 4 A' Chuil Bothy - Kingie (Glen Garry) 27km 17miles 741m

Day 5 Kingie (Glen Garry) - Camban Bothy 26km 16miles 1044m

Day 6 Camban Bothy - Maol Bhuidhe Bothy 25km 15.5miles 685m

Day 7 Maol Bhuidhe Bothy - Coire Fionnaraich Bothy 27km 17miles 747m

Day 8 Coire Fionnaraich Bothy - Kinlochewe Hotel 22km 13miles 854m

Day 9 Kinlochewe Hotel - Shenavall Bothy 27km 16 miles

Day 10 REST DAY AT SHENAVALL BOTHY CHRISTMAS EVE

Day 11 Shenavall Bothy - Knockdamph Bothy 34km 21miles 1434m

Day 12 Knockdamph Bothy - Loch Ailsh 28km 17 miles 548m

Day 13 Loch Ailsh - Glencoul Bothy 27km 17miles 799m

Day 14 Glencoul Bothy - Kylesku Hotel 16km 10 miles 557m

Day 15 Kylesku Hotel - An Dubh Loch 26km 15miles 1110m

Day 16 An Dubh Loch - Strathan Bothy 23km 14miles 290m

Day 17 Strathan Bothy - Kervaig Bothy 26km 16 miles 707m

Day 18 Kervaig Bothy - Durness 28km 17miles 497m

TRAVEL BACK TO CUMBRIA

Average distance/day - 25km 15 miles
Average ascent/day - 733m

Any comments or advice regarding the route would be most appreciated as there are many areas I have not been into. Particularly concerning river crossings and non-MBA bothies.

Fort William to Cape Wrath in Winter !?!

2009-11-02T11:39:00.000-08:00

My last post asked the question 'where next?'. Well...after a fairly quite time, not really visiting the hills as regularly as I would like, I am now busy planning a 200+ mile walk fom Fort William to the very tip of Scotland at Cape Wrath. The walk is described as 'a tough walk, one of Britain’s toughest. Wild, remote, far from civilisation. Rain, midges, river crossings all to be surmounted'. It is referred to as the Cape Wrath Trail and described in the book by D Brook & P Hinchcliff 'North to the Cape'.

Usually walked during the spring and summer, the Trail can be long and tough. I am attempting it during the winter!! Starting on 16th December at Fort William, I hope to end up at Cape Wrath by 2nd or 3rd of January 2010.
The inspiration for such a trip came from two sources. Firstly, I was thoroughy inspired by Mike Cawthorne's account of his epic winter trip through Scotland in 'Hell of a Journey' . Also Iain Harper played a big part. I discovered Iain by an entry he made in Sourlies Botthy book when I sayed their briefly last December. Iain was starting out on his Cape Wrath Trail in Winter trip. Unfortunately Iain took a fall and had to cut the walk short, but is thankfully setting out to complete it this December. I would like to thank Iain Harper for crystalising the idea for me. Iain's web site is an excellent review and musings of his winter trip. I wish Iain every success and please, if you have time, visit his site and support him.

Not being over familiar with the Scottish Highlands in full-on winter conditions over extended periods, this is going to be a real challenge for me. Walking in the winter can be tough but incredibly rewarding though ! I am incedibly excited about getting out into the hills again and am hoping to keep these posts regularly updated.

The Rough Bounds - Knoydart

2009-07-20T12:44:00.000-07:00

There is no place really like the Scottish Highlands. Stunning isolated, rugged coastlines, wide open glens, with their ruined reminders of past times, isolated bothies, exposed ridges and summits as far as the eye can see. The sight of a golden eagle, a glimse of an otter and the call of a red deer, all sightings never forgotton. Of course there's also the weather, and usually lots of it, but for those who recon that "there's no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing", well weather can be welcomed...all kinds.

I had not been up in Scotland for seven months and a trip north was long overdue. We headed north bound for Mallaig and the ferry over to Inverie on the Knoydart peninsula. Described as 'the last wilderness area in Great Britain'. Below is a few photos and a bit of a log of the five days trip

Heading over the Mam Meadaill to Sourlies bothy. Each of us with a pack loaded for five days backpacking, even the dog! The view from the top of Mam Meadail at 550metres. Sgurr na Ciche in the far distance, the Munro for tomorrows walk.

The evening view of Ben Aden from Glen Carnach. Crossing the dodgy bridge at Carnoch wasn't as bad as it looks but we did send Skye over first just in case!
After leaving the tents at Sourlies Bothy we headed up the south-west ridge of Sgurr na Ciche called Druim a Ghoirtein on the OS map. It produced magnificent view looking out over Loch Nevis.

Skye stops for a photo call with Sgurr na Ciche in the background.
On the summit of Sgurr na Ciche at 1040 metres. Well worth the sweat and tears! The whole of the Scottish Highlands set out before us. On top of a Munro on a hot clear day...bliss.

The golden ringed dragonfly were doing well and we saw many throughout the trip. The River had some great pools which helped to cool us off. Eventually we came across an idylic camp site along side Lochan nam Breac.

It was an incredibly warm evening but the pressure was dropping, wind getting up and storm clouds were gathering. It started raining around 2am and never really stopped... After three days of hot sunshine it was a nice change to get some rain. The hills were topped with cloud and glens filled with grey. A long walk alongside Loch Quoich and then through Glen Cosaidh an Glen Barrrisdale towards Barisdale Bothy. The five star bothy with electric light, running water and two flushing loos!

With the rain gone, the day broke to a clear sky and amazing views of Stob a Chearcaill looming over Barrisdale. We were on our way back to Inverie and had a sweaty climb over Mam Barrisdale at 450 metres. Alongside the beach at Inverie and within 10 minutes walk of the Old Forge Pub, what more can you ask for?We hit the pub for a few pints and celebratory meal. A great night was had by all and the venison and salmon starter is highly recommended! I would also thoroughly recommend getting into Knoydart from Mallaig using the 'Western Isles' boat. See www.knoydart-ferry.co.uk/.

Another fantastic trip into Scotland...where next?

Wainwrights Coast to Coast

2009-07-19T09:37:00.000-07:00

Mr Wainwright has certainly encouraged a lot of people to take to the Lakeland Fells with his set of excellent guide books. His version of an English Coast to Coast Walk (St Bees to Robin Hoods Bay) is also gaining interest which I guess has been considerably heightened by the recent BBC programmes. I was inspired... and being in need of a good long walk, a few weeks ago Skye and I set off on the train to St Bees...

Looking out over St Bees on a damp Saturday morning.

The low cloud cleared by midday and eventually we had three hot sunny days walking and wildcamping in the Lakes.

A idylic camp alongside Ennerdale Water.

I've always had my eye on a camp at Grisedale Tarn and at last the opportunity. The sun on the tent in the morning made for a 7am start! The appeal of walking the Coast to Coast for me was that it visited areas I had not really discovered before. Nine Standards Rigg (above) was fascinating and I ended up camping just below the strange stone structures (below) looking out over Kirkby Stephen. The flowers and hay meadows of Shap and Orton were a real delight. I have never seen so may birdseye primroses (Primula farinosa).Swaledale proved to be a real wet crossing but the all day rain and gloom created a real remote feeling to the landscape.

Most people warn about the tedious roadwalking and crossing of the Vale of Mowbray. The seemingly endless fields of 'scary cattle', gates, stiles and crops. I was thankful to complete this section and get up onto the Cleveland Hills and North Yorkshire Moors.
After 9 days of walking we eventually reached the east coast on a glorious sunny afternoon.

In conclusion, the walk was an epic, real good fun and well worth the effort. The Lake District sections were of course the most enjoyable but Swaledale inspired me to return. Opportunities for wild camping were limited after the Lakes and getting clean water sometimes a real challenge. It certainly wasn't a 'wilderness experience' or 'get away from it all' trip. I met many people all doing the same, but then I never expected to be a lone walker! It was very well signed all along the way and I never consulted my compass once! Most people I met had day packs, their luggage being sent on day by day. Although this is not for me, I can see the appeal as their are numerous hostelries/B&Bs located all along the route and very limited places worthy of wildcamping. A great trip, but I think I'll try something a little more remote next time ?!?

It does not get better than this?

2009-04-23T08:52:00.000-07:00

With a few days holidays to take and a good forecast, Skye and I headed out for a few days walking and camping. Buttermere being a destination I have not visited in too long a time, I decided to start from Gatesgarth Farm and see where I ended up. A spectacularly steep and ridge like ascent up Fleetwith Pike, across the top onto Grey Knotts, Brandreth and an idyllic camp below Green Gable.

The view from the camp down Ennerdale was magnificent. Such beauty, but also such peace and quiet!
The second day was like a balmy summer day. A real taste of the forthcoming summer? Over Great Gable, Kirk Fell and up onto Pillar. A sort descent down to Pillar Rock led onto a elevated terrace above Ennerdale for an amazingly remote feeling camp, considering the high numbers of people on the fells. What a stunning sunset!!

The heat from the morning sun woke me in the tent early (I had not experienced this since last May!). Breakfast outside the tent at 600m in the sun, with an azure blue sky and a backdrop of Pillar Rock and Crags; it really could not get any better than this!! Across Ennerdale, up onto Red Pike, High Stile and Haystacks, with a short stop off at Warnscale Head bothy. A relaxing and thoroughly enjoyable few days.

What a winter mountainscape in the Lakes

2009-02-11T13:41:00.000-08:00

After spending all week looking longingly to the snow covered mountains, Saturday finally arrived. The snow still on the ground, the sun shining and real winter conditions on the fells. What more can you ask for?

Packing lots of warm clothes and various bits of pointy metal equipment, a friend and I set off for Langdale. Our goal...to get some great winter walking in. Our route...Langdale, Bow fell, Esk Pike and Scafell Pike.

What a fantastic day stored in the memory banks.

Of course the summit still had lots of people on, even in such cold icy conditions, and someone even turned up in trainers with no crampons or ice axe. I was truely amazed how they did it. I could not stand up without slipping if it were not for the pointy things on the bottom of my boots!

It really is worthwhile geting into the hills during the winter. The views of Gable were astounding from Scafell Pike.

I am just hoping the snow stays a few more days until the weekend.

Walk Images - Part III - Skye to Ben Hope

2009-01-22T15:09:00.000-08:00

I have so many fantastic images from the walk. These below are the final ones of three parts. See previous blogs for earlier images from the walk. I hope you enjoy them.

From Skye we had a series of idyllic high camp sites to the north of Glen Shiel. This one was just past An Socach.

A snooze on Mullach na Dheiragain

This image taken early one August morning after a period of wind, rain and gloom. The sun shone, the birds were singing and everything was well with the world. Skye looks north over Loch Monar.

This is a wonderful bothy near to Achnashellach called Bearneas Bothy. A real wilderness feel. A front came in so we spent the day holed up in this bothy listening to rain batter down on the roof.

This was taken on what felt like a rooftop - on the summit of Maoile Lunndaidh.

A real hoolie of a day! We battled across Beinn Liath Mhor in very strong winds to get down into Torridon.

Skye on top of the world and on top of Liathach in Torridon.

The path along Liathach is very dramatic running along the edge of a precipitous drop.

From Liathach it was Beinn Alligin and then onto Beinn Eighe as shown above. We were so lucky with the weather in Torridon. Clear, calm and sunny!

One Monday morning about nine, we found ourselves alongside Loch Fannich (looking like a mirror) in marvelous conditions. Thinking about what I may have been doing on a such a morning, it made me really aware about how lucky I was to be doing this walk.
Glen Beg Bothy - outside...
...and inside! All my wet clothes drying over this fantastic potbellied stove.

Red deer were rutting and roaring by the time I reached the Beinn Dearg hills. They also were not phased by people and dogs. This one was most untroubled by how close were came.
The run up to the end. Ben Hope in distance.

And then reunited with the support pack spending a week on Raasay 1 stone in weight lighter!

Walk Images - Part II - Cairngorms to Skye

2009-01-22T13:32:00.001-08:00

The weather becomes a focus point for such a trip and your eye is always on the sky. Eventually confidence grows and whatever the weather you know you'll be OK.The next few weeks were unsettled but then.. the Cairngorms were stunning. Ten whole days of scorching sunshine!!! Skye doingng her best Sphinx impression on LochnagarAnother pose beside Loch Avon in the heart of the Cairngorms. It was so hot we nearly got a suntan!

An idyllic wildcamp at Loch nan Cnapan around 850 metres.
These really were days in the mountains that were spectacular. Here was a view from Braeriach on a very hot calm day. Skye scrubbed a paw on descent into Aviemore so it was an unscheduled rest for a couple of days and a trip to the vets to make sure all our six feet were OK.
The weather broke after Aviemore so it was into the Monadhliath in low cloud and rain. Here was a wonderful wildcamp under Creag Meagaidh at around 900metres.
Onwards and westwards into Knoydart. This was taking as we were ascending Gairich.

Knoydart... one of my favourite areas of Scotland.

Also one of my most memorable walks was along the ridgeline towards Sgurr na Ciche (the ice cream cone shaped mountain in the background).

A very hot sweaty walk along the south Glen Shiel ridge ending with the saddle shown here in the distance. Nine Munros on that day- a long one!
Then we headed west towards Skye. This was taken as we were approaching Blaven. Impressive looking mountain and the start of that gabbro rock. Goodbye fingertips!

The Skye Cuillin could have been a big sticking point of the walk. At my limits I managed to complete them all, and then the Inn pin with the help of Simon Webb and Paul Glading in awful weather. Thanks guys !
The view from An Dorus on the ridge. Stunning...no explanation needed.

An unexpected visitor on the summit cairn of Sgurr Alasdair.

The Great Stone Shoot and a completion of the Skye Munros. A releif to have finished but not all was over yet. Still another many miles to go.

Walk Images - Part I - Starting Off

2009-01-21T13:35:00.000-08:00

Below is my first set of photos showing Kendal to Ben Alder...

May was so hot to start such a walk. We needed to stop and cool off regularly as we moved north to Scotland!

Many a tea stop was needed in such hot weather. Brattleburn Bothy and tea stop on the Southern Upland Way.

Walking day after day in such hot conditions, is it a dream or a nightmare? Skye sleeps in the tent corner after a long day on the road.

Skye, the natural poser on Beinn a Chochuill with Cruachan in the background.

A wildcamp just under Ben Lui - little did I know how much use those Pacerpoles would get. Absolutely irreplacable !

One of the more brighter, clearer views we had while in Glen Etive. This was taken ascending Ben Starav in wind, rain and low cloud. Conditions that continued for many days.

The Aonach Eagach was always a worry for us. Was it as difficult as we had imagined it to be...? Not really, and the rain stopped, the cloud parted and it was sunny for th event of crossing the ridge.

As the rain returned and the cloud closed back in, this was a typical view from the Mamores (and the Grey Corries and all the Ben Alder Munros etc etc...).

This is one of my favourite bothies - Meananach in Glen Nevis. It kept us dry during a particulalry nasty storm...Thanks Mountain Bothies Association.

The Grey Corries. What more can I say?

Culra Bothy with Ben Alder in the background. What a stunning setting for a bothy.

We're back and it's still raining !

2008-10-22T12:51:00.000-07:00

Well after months of walking we arrived back in Kendal a week or so ago. How is Skye adjusting...? Say no more!

As for me? I am enjoying catching up with family and friends and appreciating the simply things in life again such as warm water, a loo to sit on in the morning and a real bed.

I would of course wish to thank everyone for their support over the last five months, without which the trip would not have been possible. Especially to Heather and Alan at Pacerpoles for all their help, to Simon W and Paul G for getting me up the Inn Pin, to Mike K and Glen for their fish and veggie dishes, to Steve P and Lorraine M for their wisdom and encouragement, to everyone who put a roof over my head (particularly the wonderful peaple at the Crask Inn) but most of all to Corrie, Maisie and Charlie (the Support Pack) who worked hard over the summer keeping me going when times were... lets say 'trying'! Many thanks to you all...

I now hope to eventually post pictures and anecdotes which I hope capture some of my experiences during the walk. I have thousands of memories; rain soaked days in Glen Etive, scorching days in the Cairngorms, shared bothies in Knoydart, the Cuillin ridge in cloud (say no more), Fisherfield in gales and rain and the joys and releif of standing on Ben Hope the 284th Munro. Seeing the seasons change, eagles, otters, starry saxifrage and pine martins. A whole array of captured images... Overlaying all these, I recall a feeling of a deep contentment, of completness, a heightened awarness, of being in the 'moment' day after day having to deal only with simple tasks of survival. What a trip it was, many magical moments of sheer bliss and a good number of shear struggle. All character building.

Day 116: The Inaccessible Pinnacle

2008-08-24T13:14:00.000-07:00

A big thank you to Simon Webb and Paul Glading for coming all the way up from Cumbria to help John onto the Inaccessible Pinnacle. The weather was foul, but that didn't deter them and Simon, Paul and John reached the top without mishaps. As John is a walker and not a climber, he couldn't have done this without Simon and Paul's help. Skye had to stay behind with the support crew as there was no way she could have done this Munro! Simon abseiling down the Inaccessible Pinnacle

while Paul is wondering where the sun has gotten to.....

Day 105: Wildlife Watching

2008-08-13T13:59:00.000-07:00

One of the joys of walks like this is the wildlife you bumped into. Skye is clearly fascinated by this hare. Fortunately, she has been trained not to chase anything!

Day 92: Resourceful Skye!

2008-07-31T13:46:00.000-07:00

Just before Aviemore, poor Skye got a cut on her right front paw and has got a little limp again. Knowing she needs to cool her paw down and being ever resourceful, she finds her own solution: during stops, find somewhere to lie down where the paw can dangle in water! Fortunately, the limp didn't persist long.

Cooling down the injured paw. And while you are lying there, you might as well have a little snooze ...

Day 82: Half way there!

2008-07-21T04:43:00.000-07:00

As there are a total of 284 Munros, John and Skye hit their half way mark today when they climbed Munro number 142: Broad Cairn!!! And yes, it is still raining, but there has been some improvement in the weather in the last couple of days, so John and Skye finally got a view from the top again. Fingers crossed that the weather continues to improved.

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 78: Skye climbs her 100th Munro!

2008-07-17T04:39:00.000-07:00

Having had to miss some Munros due to the sting on her paw, Skye is a little bit behind John in terms of numbers of Munros climbed. However, she has now also reached her 100th Munro when she climbed Carn Gheoidh. Well done, Skye!!!

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 72: John and Skye hit the headlines

2008-07-11T04:35:00.000-07:00

This week's Westmorland Gazette featured an article on John and Skye's long trek. It was quite a nice article, but my favourite bit was the poster hanging outside newsagents. As the weather hasn't improved, 'gruelling' is probably the right word!

(Posted by Corrie B)

A advertising board outside Kendal newsagents

Day 71: Making new friends

2008-07-10T04:10:00.000-07:00

One of the nice things about going for a long walk through Scotland is the people you get to meet. One special new friend John made was Toni, aged 9 3/4 from Glasgow, who was staying in the same bothy as John one night with her parents Teri and Bert. We haven't been able to upload any of John's photos recently, but fortunately Toni drew a picture of the bothy they were staying in for John. So thanks for coming to our rescue Toni and John sends his regards to you and your parents.

(posted by Corrie B)

Toni's art - A cosy night in a bothy

Day 67: The 100th Munro

2008-07-06T10:41:00.001-07:00

Today John and Skye climbed Ben Alder: their 100th Munro! A bit of a milestone and not an easy achievement after days and days of rain, hail, rain gales, rain, rain .......

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 62: A message about the weather

2008-07-01T08:01:00.000-07:00

John has been getting frequent text messages from friends in the Lake District saying what a lovely time he must be having in this brilliant weather. John has asked me to let everybody know that of the last 29 days, he has had 25 days of rain!!!!! Hmm, I wonder if he'll have webbed feet by the time he's finished....

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 59: John and Skye climb Ben Nevis

2008-06-28T07:55:00.000-07:00

Despite the weather not being brilliant, John and Skye have made it to the top of Britain's highest mountain together with another 3000 or so people who were all climbing Ben Nevis for a charity event that day. And another 1000 people were in the middle of doing the 3 Peaks Challenge and also climbing Ben Nevis. It probably was the busiest mountain in the UK that day!

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 55: Skye secures sponsorship

2008-06-24T07:35:00.000-07:00

A big thank you to Gilbertson & Page Ltd who have very kindly donated the entire trip's worth of their fantastic Dr John's dogfood. Normally our dogs are fed on Dr John's Silver, but for this strenuous trip Skye has been put on Dr John's Gold and Dr John's Platinum which has a higher protein content. To see Gilbertson & Page's full range of foods and to read about John and Skye in their news section visit http://www.gilpa.co.uk/

Skye looking very chuffed with one of the donated bags of Dr John's dogfood

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 54: Skye is back on track

2008-06-23T05:28:00.000-07:00

Skye is back in the mountains and is looking as fit as ever. She has not picked a good time to return though, as the weather has recently taken a turn for the worst and despite a few clear and sunny moments, there is a lot of rain and mist around making navigation and river crossings a bit of a challenge. Both John and Skye don't seemed to be daunted by bad weather though!

Skye on the way up Bidean nam Bian (as usually having to wait for John to catch up!)

Having lunch looking down towards Glen Coe

One of the more misty moments...

(posted by CB)

Day 52: Aonach Eagach

2008-06-21T04:58:00.000-07:00

The pictures probably speak for themselves:

Aonach Eagach

Looking at Bidean nam Bian and Stob Coire Sgreamhach from Aonach Eagach

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 49: Skye has fully recovered!

2008-06-18T03:07:00.000-07:00

Skye is back on all four paws again and is patiently waiting to be transported up to Scotland to rejoin John and continue her big adventure. She will do any Munros that she has missed on this trip at some point next summer.

In the meantime, John has celebrated climbing is 50th Munro with a bowl of hot rice pudding on the summit.

(Posted by Corrie B)

Skye showing the support crew

in a rather unsubtle way that

she is ready to go back

Day 42: Vet's Verdict on Skye

2008-06-11T03:02:00.000-07:00

Good news: although Skye is still hopping on three legs, the vet thinks that it's a bee or wasp sting that caused the swelling and is making her not want to use that paw. He reckons she'll be fully recovered within a week. What a relief!

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 40: Rescue mission to Killin

2008-06-09T04:46:00.000-07:00

Only five days after returning from Killin, the support crew was back to pick up Skye and take her home to the vets. A couple of nights previously, Skye suddenly started limping and by the next morning her left front paw was massively swollen and she was hopping on three legs. After a couple of days with little improvement, the decision was made to take her home to see her vet and give her time to recover.

Maisie, Corrie & Charlie:
The Support Crew aka The Wildlife Ambulance Service

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 33: Killin

2008-06-03T04:17:00.000-07:00

Enjoying the views from the top of the Arrochar Alps

One of the main problems over the last couple of weeks has been the prolonged dry weather which has made finding water a bit of a problem. Never the less, John and Skye have made good progress and with 25 Munros now under their belt/collar they have made it to Killin to meet up with the support crew and indulge in some good meals in the local establishments. We spent the evening in the Killin Hotel chatting to Drew the bare-chested (don't ask) mountain rescue Quadrathlon competitor and Duncan the bagpiper. Good luck on the 12th ofJuly, Drew!

Setting off from Killin

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 27: Unscheduled Rest Day

2008-05-27T04:00:00.000-07:00

After a good nights sleep at Rowchoish Bothy, Skye hopped of the sleeping platform and knocked her paw against the fireplace resulting in a limp when they set off to do their next Munros. So, to be on the safe side, John decided to give her (& himself) an extra rest day. It's ironic that after several hundred kilometers and 15 Munros, Skye goes and has a 'domestic' accident!

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 23: The first dozen!

2008-05-23T10:51:00.000-07:00

After climbing Ben More, John and Skye returned to Oban for a well deserved rest day in a small hotel on George Street. The lady at the service laundrette put on a very brave face when John brought in his walking clothes for a wash! The bath at the hotel took care of John and then off John and Skye went to climb the next 11 Munros, before arriving in Arrochar for the next rest day. For the first time this trip John has had some proper rain, reminding him what a great challenge it will be to climb all these Munros and to keep going regardless of the weather.

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 15: 1 down, 283 to go!

2008-05-15T13:33:00.000-07:00

Today John and Skye climbed their first Munro: Ben More on the Isle of Mull. John said it was good fun, which is a good thing seeing that he has another 283 to go ....

Skye resting on top of her first Munro - Ben More (Mull)

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 11: Isle of Arran

2008-05-12T14:54:00.000-07:00

After nearly 350km over the last 11 days, today is John and Skye's first rest day. Last night they arrived on the Isle of Arran, accompanied by 5 blisters! The last 6 days walking to Ayr via Moffat and Sanquhar have been quite tough, mainly due to the heat (who would have thought!) and the large amount of tedious Forestry Commission tracks and road walking.
The highlight of the last few days was a visit to the Wanlockhead Inn. When James, the landlord, realised that John and Skye were on a big trek for charity, he put them up in a wigwam next to the pub free of charge. He and his friends also dug all the change out of their pockets and donate around £35 to John and Skye's charities. So a big thank you to James and his friends at the Wanlockhead Inn!

Skye having a well deserved run on the beach near
Ardrossan after all that boring road walking!

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 5: Good bye England, Hello Scotland!

2008-05-05T14:57:00.000-07:00

After 5 long days of walking through the Lake District via Keswick and Carlisle, John and Skye have reached Scotland! Skye had a slightly dodgy belly for a few days, (probably too much sausage in Ambleside!), so John carried her rucksack as well as his for a couple of days. Despite her upset stomach, Skye's tail never stopped wagging and by the time they stepped over the border, she was fully recovered.

(Posted by Corrie B)

Day 1: And we have lift off ...

2008-05-01T01:11:00.000-07:00

At 9:45 am on May 1st 2008, John steps out of his doorstep to start the long walk to Cape Wrath. Skye had been sitting patiently on the doorstep for the last hour waiting for him to get ready!

After months of prepration and very little sleep, it seems unreal (but very exciting!) that this day has finally arrived!

Not all lunch stops are going to be as luxurious as the first one at Wilf's Cafe in Staveley. Skye already has the right idea: whenever you can, rest your paws and get some kip!

Next stop: Ambleside for some fish and chips (John), sausages (Skye) and the first night camping.

(Posted by Corrie B)

By Way of Introduction...

2008-04-29T10:37:00.000-07:00

Over the next five months I will be walking with Skye, my German Shepherd Dog, out of my front door in Kendal, to Cape Wrath over all the Scottish Munros (3000ft mountains). Not a direct route but how else could I justify 6 months extended leave from work?

Having spent many a dark evening this winter pondering maps and guides, planning routes and food drops and amassing more outdoor gear than is healthy, I now have statistics to offer! The walk, which will be covered entirely on feet and paws, amounts to 2100 miles with 569 000ft of ascent (that’s equivalent of walking almost 20 times up Mount Everest).The 160 nights 'out' will be spent camping and staying in bothies with a few B&Bs thrown in to freshen up a bit!

"You're not doing things by halves" I hear you saying. Well yes, but I intend to have a lot of fun doing it. Having completed a number of long walks in the past, and always wishing they could have been longer, I decided that it is time to have a go at a trip that takes several months to finish. It's just great fun...!

So, after what seems like months of planning it is almost finally a reality! In just two days time (01st May), I will be heading north from Kendal through the central Lakes and eventually working my way to Carlisle, Langholm, Moffat, Sanqhar, Ayr and Ardrossan. A trip across Arran and a ferry or two will see me through to Oban and onto Mull for the first Munro - Ben More at 3172ft. The route will then zig-zag across both familiar and unfamiliar areas throughout Scotland.

Never having really thought of writing a blog before (what do I do that would be of interest to others?) I have now decided to take the plunge in order to update family and friends of my progress. Hopefully show them some of the wonderful landscapes I'll be passing through. I do hope it's all of interest. As I have not really caught up with the technology bits and pieces (PDAs and the likes), a daily blog is not really an option. I shall however be posting words and pictures back as regular as possible.

So as Mike Cawthorne sums up in his great book 'Hell of a Journey', for the next five months 'I will be locked into a fantasy of adventure, of benefit to no one and causing concern in many'. I do hope you enjoy this blog and please considering donating to the two charities I am walking for.

PS Chocolate
Corrie (her indoors) just informed me that my daily ration of 100g of chocolate over 160 days of walking amounts to 16kg in total!! Woww...not sure whether this is good - she says good.

Best wishes
John Dunbavin